The only sure way I know of is through the restrictive covenants.  If there are none at all, that's usually a good indication that your property is in a subdivision so loosely defined, it doesn't have a formal HOA.  If there are restrictions on file, see if they provide for an HOA. 

Also, this just occured to me--a realtor would probably know since that is usually something they have to disclose (isn't it?)

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